Re: Reading Spark Plugs Pushrod Check. Re: RT Small Valves? Wanted: Exhaust pipe for a 75/5 Die Hard Battery K75 spline lube Broken push rod - a conclusion Re: K75 spline lube Re: Die Hard Battery Re: BMW: Breather Valve. R-bike starter help-repost Re: K75 spline lube Re: R-bike starter Re: Smokin' Wires homemade vest. M. Moore's Tech book bibliography
From: robert frasier <o9790174@wsunix.wsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:40:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Reading Spark Plugs
If your running unleaded gas (most of us are these days-even me), a nice
white insulator is not the bad sign it used to be. The old tan color was
related to the lead in the fuel. Blisters, blue flecks, or a screaming
ultra white are signs of too hot a plug. Does not sound like your problem.
You probably know this already, but I will repeat it anyway. The only
way to get an accurate plug reading is to run the engine at the engine
speed/load level you are interested in, then, WHILE AT THE OPERATING
POINT OF INTEREST, shut the engine off and pull in the clutch-hopefully
virtually simultaneusly :). Coast to a stop and pull the plugs (wear
gloves). If you do not do this, the appearance of the plugs will be
affected by the idle period-it don't take long.
Again, for those already hip, I don't mean to pontificate. But technique
is important.
There is not agreement on whether new or used plugs are better, as long
as the used plugs are in good shape. The head tuner for Ferrari in the
mid 70's always used used plugs for readings, as he felt they "took
color" faster than new ones. I use used ones cause I'm too cheap to buy
new ones. Especially with the cost of Pt plugs.
IMHO, the black fluffy stuff around the base of the plugs is due to the
rich idle mixture (not wrong, just richer than stoichiometry to provide
good off-idle performance), combined with the relatively cool temperature
of the base of the plug. You could probably tune some of that away, but
you may wind up putting an awfull lot of time in for a very small gain.
Slightly rich idle mixtures are good for the motor, if not for the
environment.
The other symptoms you describe are probably not representative due to
the mixed riding conditions you described prior to pulling the plugs.
Take the bike out on a lonely stretch of road, and check the plugs at
highway speed, and if possible, after pulling a longish hill in a high
gear at speed. This will give you info on the main jetting. Highway
running will tend to reflect the needle jet more, with some influence
from the mains.
One more time: If this is old news, I apologize.
Good luck.
Bob Frasier
------------------------------
From: jroche@mailer.fsu.edu (jim roche)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 16:28:51 -0500
Subject: Pushrod Check.
>
>> From: David Crisp <davidc@ist.flinders.edu.au>
>Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 03:13:03 +1030
>Subject: Broken push rods
>
>Hi all,
>
>My friends R75/5 has just stopped working. The reason being that the end of
>a push rod snapped off. It was a clean break just below the end which fits
>into the rocker arm. The broken piece fell into the bottom of the rocker
>cover and there seems to be no damage done.
>
>However, there also seems to be no reason for the push rod to break. Our best
>guess is that it was natural wear and tear and this is to be expected on
>a bike which has done over 100,000 miles. Is our guess sensible?
>
>Can we fix it by simply buying a new push rod and putting it in? Or do you
>need to replace the parts it fits into as well? And what about the other
>rods? Can a broken push rod cause any serious damage?
>
>Thanks,
>
>David Crisp.
>Adelaide, Australia.
Dear David, remove rocker arm from that valve side only. Remove and
replace the threaded dish head bolt on the rocker tip and its special nut
with a new unit or with a used one in original condition. Check that
valve is moving freely by compressing it (tap or push) and notice that it
springs back and seats at once -- we want to make sure that the valve is
not sticking in the guide, remove pushrod and examine other non broken end
- -- is it squeezed compressed toward the tube (body) of the rod -- if it is
we may have to check that lifter later -- but for now we put in new or used
pushrod -- reassemble rocker, torque just those two nuts, set that valve
and crank bike. If all seems well, cut engine, loosen all and reassemble
the whole top end in the proper manner. Check the valve train carefully
for loose play, broken springs, flattened spots on the rocker radius, bent
rockers, ect.
Best,
http://garnet.acns.fsu.edu/~jroche/index.html
------------------------------
From: mick@westworld.com (Mick McKinnon)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 20:37:29 -0800
Subject: Re: RT Small Valves?
>, but reputable people had to run Dyno test to make sure. Have you
>found a answer to the 1100 top end being able to bolt up to the 850 bottom?
>Of interest also is whether the electric maps would have to change or
>could we keep the same chip and all related reader units -- with a plus
>being that the new R850 has a higher Rev Limit cutoff that a 259 could
>possibly take.
>
>Exactly how close are they on Peak HP -- we will have to wait a few more
>weeks. 84HP (1995 RSL) at the rear wheel for a 259 Big Valve is our base
>line for a Dead Stock new twin -- how near will a new small valve head 96RT
>be able to get to that?
Thanks Jim,
I really did think they had changed them, thanks for the confirmation.
On the Motronic and chip, I'd bet you'd have to use the 850 unit and
keep all the 850 sensors.
Mick, Simi Valley, CA, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, Milky
Way,Universe
___________________________________________________________________
'93 K1100LT..Quick Trips! 3-Flags #76 K11LT_Mick@Vnet.IBM.Com
'96 R1100RT.....Twisties! MOA#57053 RA#28302 mick@Westworld.Com
'83 R100RT 60th Aniv. Edition..Has been adopted by a very nice family in Berkley
___________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
From: Jim Normandeau <normando@unavco.ucar.edu>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 17:24:17 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Wanted: Exhaust pipe for a 75/5
I only need the right side but I'd take both.
Also need a cross-over pipe.
jim
email:normando@unavco.ucar.edu http://www.unavco.ucar.edu
------------------------------
From: JOEDILL@frmail.rosemount.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 14:51:21 -0600
Subject: Die Hard Battery
I got 5 years out of my first battery in my '86 k100. I have 5
years on its replacement. I figure I am about due. Sears is
having a 25% off sale on their Die Hard motorcycle batterys. Does
anyone know if they have one that fits a K100?
Ride Safe,
Joe Dille
(joedill@frmail.rosemount.com)
------------------------------
From: Toby Berk <berkt@fiu.edu>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 21:23:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: K75 spline lube
This is for a friend who just acquired a 1985 K75T. He wants to know if
the tranny input splines should be lubed regularly (say, once a year),
like on an R bike, or if it is only necessary when the clutch is changed.
This topic might have been covered recently, but my wife and I only have
R bikes (four at last count, plus parts) so I haven't been reading the K
stuff carefully.
Thanks
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toby Berk berkt@fiu.edu (305)348-2367
School of Computer Science Florida International University Miami FL 33199
------------------------------
From: David Crisp <davidc@ist.flinders.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:14:24 +1030
Subject: Broken push rod - a conclusion
The general consensus is that it is unusual to break push rods
even on a high milage bike (an R75/5 in this case). Although,
one suggestion was that it may have been a poorly made rod.
Other suggestions were that rocker arm may have been badly located
and hence the rod was rubbing on the surrounding tube. (But there were no
wear marks indicating that this happened on my friends bike). Or that the
the rod was stressed by pushing the engine to hard, i.e. running it at
the redline for long periods. (Not applicable to my friend either.) Or that
it was stressed by the rocker arm binding on its shaft.
It turns out that this last situation is probably what happen to my friend.
He had some head work done about 7,000 miles ago. Within a few hundred
miles of that he had problems with the rocker for the push rod in question.
The spacer on the rocker shaft cracked in two and fell off. It seems that the
rocker must have been binding and this stressed the push rod. It just took
a while for the rod to break.
The mystery now is how was the rocker arm installed so badly?
Anyway, everything looked OK except for the broken rod so my friend
repaired his bike by simply installing a new rod. It was a slightly
different shape to the old ones (not so tapered on the ends) but went
in OK. It cost Aust $75. At that price he decided to leave the others in.
The bike is running again with no problems so far.
David Crisp.
Adelaide, Australia.
------------------------------
From: David Brick <dbrick@deepthought.armory.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:00:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: K75 spline lube
Toby,
Not only was it covered recently, it comes up periodically. There is lots
of interest in this topic!
My opinion is that the tranny input splines on a K75 ought be lubed
yearly or so; good shifting depends, inter alia, upon the free movement
of the clutch disk on the splines. It's a small movement, but necessary.
Lubrication helps a lot. BMWNA now recomments a proprietary lube,
available at the dealer in a toothpaste-type tube (a foot high!) for $5
or so. Enough for every K-bike in the western hemisphere.
The rear-end splines at either end of the driveshaft also need to stay
lubed; unlike the R bikes, these don't run in oil and given the power of
the motor, are marginally engineered. They can be done without removing
(or loosening) the transmission; doing the tranny input splines requires
(at least) moving the transmission an inch or so back.
Email me if you want more help with it.
David Brick
dbrick@deepthought.armory.com
Santa Cruz, California
BOOF #8 and DAVE #6 (but always #1 to my mom)
On Sun, 24 Mar 1996, Toby Berk wrote:
> This is for a friend who just acquired a 1985 K75T. He wants to know if
> the tranny input splines should be lubed regularly (say, once a year),
> like on an R bike, or if it is only necessary when the clutch is changed.
>
> This topic might have been covered recently, but my wife and I only have
> R bikes (four at last count, plus parts) so I haven't been reading the K
> stuff carefully.
>
> Thanks
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Toby Berk berkt@fiu.edu (305)348-2367
> School of Computer Science Florida International University Miami FL 33199
>
------------------------------
From: steveb@falcon.kla.com (Steven Buchholz)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:07:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Die Hard Battery
> I got 5 years out of my first battery in my '86 k100. I have 5
> years on its replacement. I figure I am about due. Sears is
> having a 25% off sale on their Die Hard motorcycle batterys. Does
> anyone know if they have one that fits a K100?
>
Yes, they do, but given the price I was quoted by Sears, even with a 25%
discount I think the price I got from Cal BMW on an OEM replacement would
probably be cheaper. Shop around!
HTH!
Steve Buchholz
s_buchho@kla.com
San Jose, CA (USA)
------------------------------
From: roger@mostro.sps.mot.com (Roger Albert)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 11:08:10 CST
Subject: Re: BMW: Breather Valve.
Hi all,
I'll try and pass along whatever I find out.
I'm most interested in what the valve itself
would look like. i.e. is there a good way to
tell if the valve is actually bad or not? I
don't want to replace it justfor the sake of
saying I replaced it. It's not that much
work, but sometimes things do go awry when
working and I'd hate to end up dropping some
old breather valve bit down in the case or
some such when it really wasn't even bad.
My question to the list should have read some-
thing like: can the old plunger type breathers
look just fine but not be doing their job?
How much oil vapor is normal. Surely some since
that _is_ the valves job after all. As I said,
I'd just like some education before preceeding.
I like to know the whys and expectations as
well as the hows and procedures.
regards
roger
- ----- Begin Included Message -----
>From BMWDUCMAN@aol.com Mon Mar 25 10:32:41 1996
From: BMWDUCMAN@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:35:41 -0500
To: roger@mostro, bmwmc@world.std.com, bmwt@mostro
Subject: Re: BMW: Breather Valve.
Content-Length: 643
Roger, I too am curious as to the breather's failure symptoms - what are
they?
My breather valve is fairly clean, but I do suck alot of oil vapor down the
right cylinder intake. Last weekend, I decided to experiment by placing a
copper "T" on the existing breather hose as it enters the filtered air
chamber, just 2 inches from the carb inlet tube. I cut the existing hose and
spliced the "T" in place, running a 9 inch thin walled hose through the air
filter to the left carberator inlet tube.
The bike runs fine and I will wait and see if the left carb and draw any of
the oil vapor past the 90 degree turn in the "T" fitting installed.
- ----- End Included Message -----
------------------------------
From: "Ned Thaxton Beck" <ntbeck@unity.ncsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 15:02:20 -0500
Subject: R-bike starter help-repost
The model R Bike is a 77R100: Any experiences or help would be greatly
appreciated!
At daytona my starter began to act up. Sometimes when starting it makes a
terrible noise exactly like when you hit the starter on a bike or car while it
is already running. It sounds like the starter gear is not meshing wiht the
flywheel or something. I thought it may be a fake neutral phenomenon with the
transmission so i began pulling in the clutch to start the bike. i also tried
starting the bike with the clutch lever pulled in and the tranny in 1st or
second gear. Sommetimes all of the methods would work but never consisitently
and thus i could not discern what the problem was. Then suddenly the starter
would decide it wanted the behave and start the bike for no apparent reason.
When gassing up and such, sometimes the bike would start just fine but usually
not. if anyone knows the problem here please let me know asap....the battery is
well charged and the starter components spec out. The flywheel gear is not worn
( i have not had a chance to check the starter gear simce the trip).any help
and advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Please email me direct
Ned T. Beck
- --
ntbeck@tx.ncsu.edu
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
------------------------------
From: Arold_Reinders <arold@euronet.nl>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:35:19 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: K75 spline lube
David, thanks for this clear answer.
I bought a week ago a K100RT from 1987 with approx. 35.000 mls.
I can see at the heads of the bolts that the transmission was never removed.
I noticed that it is sometimes difficult to shift gears (specially from 4 th
to 5 th gear).
Is this a typical indication that I need to lubricate my splines?
And is there an average time a clutch will last?
At 08:00 25-03-96 -0800, you wrote:
>Toby,
>Not only was it covered recently, it comes up periodically. There is lots
>of interest in this topic!
>My opinion is that the tranny input splines on a K75 ought be lubed
>yearly or so; good shifting depends, inter alia, upon the free movement
>of the clutch disk on the splines. It's a small movement, but necessary.
>Lubrication helps a lot. BMWNA now recomments a proprietary lube,
>available at the dealer in a toothpaste-type tube (a foot high!) for $5
>or so. Enough for every K-bike in the western hemisphere.
>The rear-end splines at either end of the driveshaft also need to stay
>lubed; unlike the R bikes, these don't run in oil and given the power of
>the motor, are marginally engineered. They can be done without removing
>(or loosening) the transmission; doing the tranny input splines requires
>(at least) moving the transmission an inch or so back.
Regards with a smile from:
visit Arold's Africa Adventure @ www.euronet.nl/users/arold
------------------------------
From: Jonathan Hutchins <jhutchins@cctr.umkc.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:10:39 -0600
Subject: Re: R-bike starter
At 03:02 PM 3/25/96 -0500, Ned Thaxton Beck wrote:
>The model R Bike is a 77R100: Any experiences or help would be greatly
>appreciated!
>At daytona my starter began to act up. Sometimes when starting it makes a
>terrible noise exactly like when you hit the starter on a bike or car while it
>is already running.
Ned, I'm afraid I don't know the intimate details of the R bike starter, but
something's definately wrong with the clutch/solenoid/gear engagement
mechanism.
Whatever you do is going to involve pulling the starter, so that's what I'd
do next.
There are there methods I know of of engaging a starter when it's energised
and disengaging it when the motor starts.
The one used on transverse fours is a simple roller clutch. The rollers are
mounted in spiral grooves in a holder that places them around the driven
shaft. When the starter spins, it drives the roller assembly, and the
rollers tend to drag on the shaft. When the shaft spins faster than the
rollers, it tends to push them outward in the spiral grooves, disengaging them.
The next type is called a sprague (?) clutch. The shaft of the starter has
helical splines (like very steep threads) on which the drive gear rides.
When the starter spins, the momentum of the drive gear causes these threads
to push it toward the driven gear (usually cut into the flywheel).
Hopefully, it engages. When the driven gear starts to overrun the starter,
the gear is spun back down the threads. Springs are often involved somewhere.
The third type is a Bendix(?) starter. Similar to the above, except rather
than relying on the dubious luck of momentum, the starter solenoid/relay is
incorporated into the gear clutch. Energising the starter causes the
solenoid to engage the gear. At full travel, the starter contacts close,
powering the actual starter motor. There are a lot of variations on this
one, some incorporate a physical engagement mechanism instead of an
electrical solenoid to engage the gear, some incorporate some provision for
disengaging while others will merrily keep the starter energised as long as
you hold the key/button/lever.
Please note that I am not certain which is called the "sprague" and which
the "Bendix", but I think that's right.
Good luck, and please let us know what you find.
Jonathan Hutchins
The Wolf's Den BBS (FIDO 1:280/76)
UMKC Library Computer Support
FAA A&P, PPSEL
'85 K100, '81 GS850G
------------------------------
From: "Erik Nottleson" <ewn@ionics.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 08:39:58 +0000
Subject: Re: Smokin' Wires
> > From: "Malcolm A. Meyn" <tmeyn@ag.arizona.edu>
> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:50:30 -0700 (MST)
> Subject: Smoking starter switch
>
> I love the smell of smoking electrics in the morning.
>
> Last week the mounting of the original voltage regulator on my '76 R90S
> broke and, as the unit is over 20 years old, I decided to replace it with
> the NAPA VR-503 recommeded by others on the list.
>
> As described, the unit is a perfect fit with respect to both mounting and
> the plug harness. I got it mounted and went for about a 10 mile ride.
> According to the voltmeter, all was normal. Later in the day I went for
> a shorter ride, again all things appeared to be normal. This all happened
> yesterday (Sunday).
>
> Flash to this morning. Insert and turn key, press starter switch, listen
> to typical starter noised with no catching of the motor. Notice smoke
> coming out of the starter switch and the headlight shell. Feel sinking
> feeling in pit of stomach. Pop off headlight and notice the Green/Blue
> wire insulation leading from the key switch is just about melted away.
> Hitch ride to work from wife.
>
> Now, how deep into it am I? What would cause this? I suspect that the
> addition of the VR-503 is merely corrolary. Any chance it could cause
> this? How much of my electrics can I expect to be fried? What is the
> best way to go about fixing this?
>
> I remember someone else on the list experiencing a similar problem with
> the addition of some new coils. Any replies that were sent to this
> person would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Tony Meyn
> '76 R90S Smokin' Silver Smoke
>
Good Morning, Tony. I'm way behind in reading my posts, so excuse me if you've
received enough responses.
I also had the blue/green key & kill switch wires turn crispy on me. On my bike
(R100, 1980), it turned out that the coils had worn out and were shorting
through the case into the frame. I had them checked on a coil tester to verify
this. The BMW mechanic who tested the first pair was surprised, saying he'd
never seen this happen before. ANYWAY, with a new coil (Accel, dual-connection
unit), I have banished the burning-wires demons.
More on the coils: I burned the aforementioned wires one Fall. Over the winter,
we traced all the burnt wires down to the left coil. Continuity & voltage
readings were all OK. So we replaced the bad wires with some heavier gauge
wire, fired it up, and watched things smoke again. D***! At this point, I took
the coils to the dealer. To check his diagnosis, I wrapped them in electrical
tape and reinstalled them - bike ran, no smoking or arcing. Sooooooo, I found a
pair of used coils from a '75 R75 ("hardly used, replaced stock ignition with
electrics many years ago....cheap..."). I can't blame the guy who sold them to
me, but these 20-year old coils worked great for about 1-2000 miles before the
short-demon found me again and crippled my ignition system again. THIS time, I
went for the new coiL - I bought a double-takeoff unit from Accel. It costs as
much from Dennis Kirk as one Bosch coil from Capitol or my local dealer. I got
the specs on it to make sure the resistance matched the stock unit. My
reasoning was this: if the problem is the coil, this has the specs to be a
replacement unit. If the problem is lurking elsewhere and only killing coils,
then I'm only wasting half the money to buy another sacrificial coil. A year
later, I'm very pleased with the Accel coil - better starting, more voltage (at
the gauge), and I think the power has improved somewhat.
Oh, one IMPORTANT thing - clean every connection from the battery to the coils.
Buy the battery-post-acid-neutralizer spray, and scrape the wires & terminals
clean. I think that 14 years of road dirt and grime had built up in enough
contacts that the effective resistance of my wiring increased to the point that
the ignition system VOLTAGE ramped up enough to kill my coils (both times).
This cleaning has really made the charging system perform better.
Good luck. Sorry if this got to be a long read, but I got carried away.
------------------------------
From: robert frasier <o9790174@wsunix.wsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:30:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: homemade vest.
I discovered a neat material for making electric vests/seats/hat
bands/whatever.
A local anglers store has a selection of braided, stainless steel wire in
a variety of sizes.
It is sold for making leaders for salmon fishing (here) and I would think
also salt water fishing.
The stuff I picked up was of the "Sevenstrand"
brand, but there were a couple others with similar names. I bought a 30'
roll, rated at 47 lbs test, for $3.00
This stuff is cool because it is very, very flexible. The 47 lb test
size has a resistivity of 3 ohms/foot. By trial and error (thank the
gods for adjustable voltage power supplies :)) I determined that 6.5 feet
lengths got good and warm to the touch, but not so hot as to burn flesh.
I think this can be scaled if you use wire that has a different
resistivity-you want to aim for a power dissipation/foot of approximately
1.5 watts/foot.
SS wire has to be silver soldered, which is a pain for most people. I
tinned the ends with silver, then lead soldered the SS to the copper wire
buss. There is probably a way to use crimp-type connectors, but I have a
visceral loathing of crimp-ons, and soldered connections were for me,
easy, and much more compact.
BTW, the fisherpersons place also had solid stainless wire, 0.020" dia,
type 302/304. AKA safety wire. But unlike "real" safety wire, which is
typically milspec and heinously expensive, 100 feet of stainless leader
wire was $6.95.
Stitched into a goodwill all-cotton shirt, I am running 41 watts toasty.
STay warm yall.
Bob Frasier
------------------------------
From: kari@calbmwtriumph.com (CALIFORNIA BMW TRIUMPH)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:26:12 -0800
Subject: M. Moore's Tech book bibliography
I pulled this bibliography by Michael Moore off the Brit-Iron list and am
posting it to the BMW lists with his permission. Many of these books are
favorite standards in the field, and worthwhile additions to any
enthusiast's library. My personal comments are in ( ) on the right.
>BIBLIOGRAPHY OF TECHNICAL BOOKS
>
>I have read these books and recommend all of them. I have
>asterisked what I feel are the most informative/interesting
>books. I'm not into two strokes so I didn't asterisk books on
>them. I previously posted this list to the Race, EX500 and Thumper lists,
>and people seemed to appreciate having it.
>
>Most aircraft books from Aircraft Spruce.
>Classic Motorbooks, Pacific Motorbooks, Hoskings Book Works, Motorsport or
>Walneck's for automotive and motorcycle books
>
>*PREPARE TO WIN (All great books for the home
>builder,
>*TUNE TO WIN racer or developer...)
>*ENGINEER TO WIN
>*NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS AND PLUMBING
>(this man has more experience in racing/engineering
>than many - readable and practical)
>Carroll Smith, Aero Publishers, Motorbooks Intl.
>
>*THEORY AND PRACTICE OF CYLINDERHEAD MODIFICATION
>*TUNING BL'S A-SERIES ENGINE, 2nd Edition
>(Lots of valuable engine info, backed up with flow
>bench and dyno testing)
>David Vizard, Inter Auto Book Co., Haynes
>
>*RACE & RALLY CAR SOURCE BOOK
>(How to build/design race cars with case histories,
>entertaining)
>Allan Staniforth, Haynes
>
>*ROAD RACERS REVEALED
>(Not much technical info, but lots of interesting
>pictures of trick race bikes)
>Alan Cathcart, Osprey
>
>*MOTORCYCLE TUNING CHASSIS
>*MOTORCYCLE TUNING FOUR-STROKE
>MOTORCYCLE TUNING TWO-STROKE
>*Also, Robinson's tech articles in Performance Bikes magazine
>(Very readable, with some math/computer stuff)
>John Robinson, Heinemann Professional Publishing
>
>*THE COMPLETE BOOK OF ENDURANCE RACING
>(interesting history with lots of pictures of 70/80's
>endurance racers)
>John Robinson, Haynes
>
>*THE CHEVROLET RACING ENGINE (BMW Twins = 25% of a big block V8....)
>(another book by a noted car engine builder)
>Bill Jenkins, S-A Design
>
>*SCIENTIFIC DESIGN OF EXHAUST & INTAKE SYSTEMS (read before you put that)
>Philip Smith and John Morrison, Robert Bentley Inc. (giant carb on the bike...)
>*THE DESIGN AND TUNING OF COMPETITION ENGINES (Good basic info....)
>(dated, but good basic info, easy and interesting to
>read)
>Philip H. Smith, Robert Bentley Inc.
>
>*RACING AND SPORTS CAR CHASSIS DESIGN
>Michael Costin and David Phipps, Robert Bentley Inc.
>
>*4 STROKE PERFORMANCE TUNING
>2 STROKE PERFORMANCE TUNING
>Alexander G. Bell, Haynes
>
>*MOTORCYCLE ENGINEERING (Old but one of my favorites...)
>*TUNING FOR SPEED
>(classics that are full of sound advice applicable to a
>wide range of bikes)
>Phil Irving, Turton and Armstrong
>
>*MOTORCYCLE CHASSIS DESIGN
>(good discussions of steering geometry and chassis
>design, with interesting practical experiments)
>Tony Foale and Vic Willougbhy, Osprey
>(Motorsport is the only supplier I've seen recently)
>
>*RACING ENGINE PREPARATION
>(valuable info from a bigtime NASCAR engine builder)
>Waddell Wilson and Steve Smith, Steve Smith Autosports
>
>*METAL FABRICATORS HANDBOOK
>*SHEET METAL HANDBOOK
>(you need these if you aren't already capable of
>building an Indy car in your garage)
>Ron Fournier, HP Books
>=============================================
>
>THE SPORTS CAR (A great basic text for neophytes...)
>(good general text)
>Colin Chapman, Robert Bentley Inc.
>
>RACING CAR DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT
>(good general text by a noted designer)
>Len Terry and Alan Baker, Robert Bentley Inc.
>
>RACE CAR ENGINEERING AND MECHANICS
>(good general text by a noted engineer)
>Paul Van Valkenburgh, Dodd, Meade
>
>INDY CAR
>Roger Huntington, HP Books
>
>LIGHT AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION FOR AMATEUR BUILDERS
>L. Pazmany
>
>THE POWER TO WIN - FORD COSWORTH RACING ENGINES
>John Blunsden, MRP
>SUPERBIKE PREPARATION
>Jewel Hendricks, MRP (Motor Racing Publications)
>
>TURBOCHARGERS
>Hugh MacInnes, HP Books
>
>DESIGN AND TUNING FOR MOTOCROSS
>Jim Gianatsis, Motorbooks Intl.
>
>POWER SECRETS (At least all that Smokey is willing to tell..)
>Smokey Yunick, S-A Design
>
>THE SOFT SCIENCE OF ROAD RACING MOTORCYCLES
>Keith Code, Acrobat Books
>
>AIAA SECOND SYMPOSIUM AERODYNAMICS OF SPORTS AND COMPETITION
>AUTOMOBILES
>American Institute of Aeronautics and Astronautics, Western
>Periodicals Co.
>
>MOTORCYCLE DYNAMICS AND RIDER CONTROL (A little heavy on math)
>Society of Automotive Engineers #SP-428
>
>RACER'S COMPLETE REFERENCE GUIDE
>Steve Smith, Steve Smith Autosports
>
>WEBER CARBURETTORS - THEORY (Good for old Saabs, too)
>WEBER CARBURETTORS - TUNING AND MAINENANCE
>John Passini, Speedsport
>
>TUNING TWIN CAM FORDS
>David Vizard, Speedsport
>
>THE GLASSFIBRE HANDBOOK
>R.H. Warring, Argus Books Limited
>
>GLASS FIBER AUTO BODY CONSTRUCTION SIMPLIFIED
>John A. Wills, Post Motor Books
>
>BUILD TO WIN
>(Composite fabrication in race vehicles)
>Keith Noakes, Osprey
>
>TWO-STROKE TUNER'S HANDBOOK
>(an out of print classic)
>Gordon Jennings, H.P. Books
>
>THE INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE IN THEORY AND PRACTICE, VOL 1,2
>(probably best left to the real engineers, unless you
>are good at reading around numbers/formulae)
>Charles Taylor, M.I.T. Press
This last one is a great one for the pictures and designs, even if you
don't care about the math.
REgards, Kari
Kari Prager - kari@calbmwtriumph.com (California BMW TRIUMPH)
2490 Old Middlefield Way, Mountain View, CA 94043 (near San Francisco) USA
415 966 1183 (Monday - Sat) Fax 415 966 8340 for mail order service
(For reliable reply, please put "kari" or "KWP" in the subject - thank you)
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