SOS Priority Lights Re: SOS Priority Lights Re: SOS Priority Lights BMW: Tech: Testing Steering dampers K&N Air Filters..... Re: BMW: K&N Air Filters..... Clogged pipes Re: Clogged pipes Re: Clogged pipes R90/6 Vibrations German Accent Pilot Bearing, R90/6 Re: Pilot Bearing, R90/6 Aeroflow vs. Parabellum Clutch Spline Consumables Re: Clutch Spline Consumables It's April First you accent complainers! Mikuni square side carbs Re: Mikuni square side carbs More carb stuff Re: Clutch Spline Consumables
From: jmft@IX.NETCOM.COM (Jean M Feuillet)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:16:47 -0800
Subject: SOS Priority Lights
Hello,
I now own a new 1996 K11RS Special Edition and I'd like to receive info
on several products I've seen advertised in the BMW ON.
To improve my safety, I want to install the SOS Priority Lights for the
front headlight, the Run'n'Lites for the flashers and the Hyperlites
for the rear brake light.
Will these products work on this bike together without affecting the
computer system or draw too much current? Is there any product that I
should avoid? Is it easy to install for a novice mechanic?
I would greatly appreciate any comments and suggestions on these
various products.
Jay Feuillet.
------------------------------
From: Brian Curry <bmwbrian@voicenet.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 07:15:10 -0500
Subject: Re: SOS Priority Lights
At 05:16 PM 3/28/96 -0800, Jean M Feuillet wrote:
>To improve my safety, I want to install the SOS Priority Lights for the
>front headlight, the Run'n'Lites for the flashers and the Hyperlites
>for the rear brake light.
>
>Will these products work on this bike together without affecting the
>computer system or draw too much current? Is there any product that I
>should avoid? Is it easy to install for a novice mechanic?
I don't have the SOS so I cannot address it at all. I have the Run'n'Lites
on both bikes. They are easy to install and do not affect the bulb
monitoring system, as near as I can tell. I have the Hyperlites on both
bikes. Again. Easy to install. Take your time and don't rush. The guy
selling them was installing them at Daytona. I took about as long from the
instructions as he did from experience. The Hyperlites pull virtually no
current. They do not disturb the bulb monitoring system as far as I can
tell. I have had no lights burn out, so I don't know if they mask that
indications.
The current draw is so low, that I don't worry about it with the ~400 watt
alternator. With the ~700 watt in yours, it definitely is not a problem.
You are probably only increasing the constant draw by maybe 20 watts with
the Run'n'Lites. The HyperLites only pull current when braking, so that is
a no virtually a never mind and even more so, since the current draw is so low.
Both of them are very simple. If you can find someone that is happy dealing
with electricity, they can do some hand holding for you. :)
Good luck and ride with "intensity."
Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA
K-Whiner #21, BOOF #38, OSP #7, "VI,CE"
BMWMOA#4578, BMWRA#12296, AMA#725653, USCA#078, PE-029523-E, N3IYL
IDN-A force for good in the world. All of the good, none of the bad.
------------------------------
From: jeb@honet5.att.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:50:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: SOS Priority Lights
Brian Curry responded to a post I did not (yet?) see:
>At 05:16 PM 3/28/96 -0800, Jean M Feuillet wrote:
>
>>To improve my safety, I want to install the SOS Priority Lights for the
>>front headlight, the Run'n'Lites for the flashers and the Hyperlites
>>for the rear brake light.
I have SOS Priority Lights on the first two bikes listed in my .sig.
Had them on the bike before that (but it was Japanese so I won't
mention it :-) ). I don't know how much they draw. I don't quite
understand your question though. You mention SOS PL's for the
"front headlight". Don't know about that. I have them on the
rear. They turn the signals into running lights and when you
engage the brake, they get brighter (as well as making everything
else work as you'd expect). I think they are *great* for
conspicuity. I also have put RnL's on the front signals.
One note: the PL's are illegal in my state, and probably a lot
other. I've NEVER had a problem, even when I temporarily had
PL's +, which blink incessently (don't get THEM). The reason
they're illegal has to do with the color of the signals - no
color other than red is allowed. I don't care and I've never
heard of anyone having a problem. They don't even mention
it at inspection, where they've failed me for the grill on my
headlight on the PD - which of course is totally LEGAL (sold
that way).
With the PL's I wouldn't bother with the Hyperlites. Oh,
just in case, I've wired them with spade connectors (so
I could get through inspection if necessary). The job is
pretty easy. You have to find a place for the small "box".
It fits easily in my tail section. On my first bike I had
in next to a sidecover - it's fairly small. You will have to
tap into existing wire to connect it. I've used crimp on
taps. I had a small problem on the GS with one coming loose.
I just replaced it, but finding the problem wasn't a quick
task. It was intermittent of course, and took a while to
find.
As far as more conspicuity is concerned - I wear a Conspicuity vest
and a Halo helmet band. My Aerostich also has Scothlight (or whatever
it's called) and I've put reflective patches on the hard bags. Can
you say GLOW?
Good luck.
Now I gotta save this post, as this is probably the tenth time I've
typed all this in!
- --
Jim Bessette | Experiencing | First BMW 1989 K100RS/ABS
jeb@honet5.att.com | BMW evolution | Second BMW 1993 R100GS/PD
Freehold NJ, USA | in reverse | Latest BMW 1968 R50/2
------------------------------
From: steveb@falcon.kla.com (Steven Buchholz)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:08:54 -0800
Subject: BMW: Tech: Testing Steering dampers
I have a 1992 k1 with about 38K miles. I've been noticing that over the
past couple of days that the steering seems to be a little twitchy in
slow speed operation, and I found that when I take my hands of the bars
at moderate speed (~30 MPH) that I'm getting a little front-end wobble.
The tires are at about half used, with the normal left of center wear pat-
tern. Since I'm noticing things at speeds near 0 I'm thinking that the
tires are OK, but I'm wondering if the steering damper needs to be repla-
ced, or if there were any other thoughts as to what the problem might be.
What is the typical life for the steering damper and are there any tests
that I can do to determine if mine has a problem?
... side question ... I had the case on my battery crack a few weeks back
(those cold California winters you know ;) ... I caught it fairly quickly,
and the only "damage" that was done was that the black finish on the thin
metal shield that is below the left footpeg to shield from the exhaust
system. I found that a replacement part is ~$70, so I'm going to refinish
it. Does anyone know if it is simply painted black or if it is anodized?
Any suggestions on refinishing it?
TIA!
Steve Buchholz
s_buchho@kla.com
San Jose, CA (USA)
'92 k1 (K1DRBAR)
------------------------------
From: mick@westworld.com (Mick McKinnon)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 15:29:13 -0800
Subject: K&N Air Filters.....
I've been shopping for a K&N Air Filter for my new RT, I know....
they ruin engines per some reports.....If you want to find one at
a good price $29.14 + shipping...Call Jeff at Donnelson Cycles
in MO. 800.325.4144
I spoke to K&N first since they are pretty local (100 mi or so away
in Riverside) and Mike told me that his suggested retail price is $31.42
Comp Acc in OH wanted $36.95 PLUS $7.80 to pack it and ship it.
The R1100 filter Part# is BM-0400 but they don't have one listed
for the '96 RT yet. Since the air filter element hasn't changed from
the RS's to the RT's I think it's safe to assume it will fit your new RT.
Mick, Simi Valley, CA, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System,
MilkyWay,Universe
___________________________________________________________________
'93 K1100LT..Quick Trips! 3-Flags #76 K11LT_Mick@Vnet.IBM.Com
'96 R1100RT.....Twisties! MOA#57053 RA#28302 mick@Westworld.Com
'83 R100RT 60th Aniv. Edition..Has been adopted by a very nice family in Berkley
___________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
From: Erik Schlein <eschlein@u.washington.edu>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 20:26:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BMW: K&N Air Filters.....
Hi volks,
I've been thinking of replacing the airfilter on my 85 K100RT with a K&N.
I hadn't heard that they can damage engines. Anybody know anything about
this? I've got a Stayintune on the way and thought I'd mildly enhance
breathing at the intake end o' things while I'm at it.
TIA-- Erik Schlein
85 K100RT/72 Commando/70 Triumph T100C
------------------------------
From: JOEDILL@frmail.rosemount.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 20:00:50 -0600
Subject: Clogged pipes
I believe the pipes on my dad's Suzuki GT380 (2-stroke) are
clogged. The peak horepower is down to about 5 and each exhaust
pipe weighs about 35 lbs. Does anyone have a non-destructive
way of getting the carbon out of the pipes?
Pardon the bandwith, but I didn't know who else to ask. My dad
did have a BMW R80RT Until a Ford F150 made a left in front of
him.
Ride Safe
Joe Dille
(joedill@frmail.rosemount.com)
------------------------------
From: "Richard Bernecker" <bernie@cais.cais.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 22:54:15 -5
Subject: Re: Clogged pipes
>
> I believe the pipes on my dad's Suzuki GT380 (2-stroke) are
> clogged. The peak horepower is down to about 5 and each exhaust
> pipe weighs about 35 lbs. Does anyone have a non-destructive
> way of getting the carbon out of the pipes?
>
> Pardon the bandwith, but I didn't know who else to ask. My dad
> did have a BMW R80RT Until a Ford F150 made a left in front of
> him.
>
> Ride Safe
>
> Joe Dille
> (joedill@frmail.rosemount.com)
>
If you don't get the answer you want here, try the 2-stroke list.
2-stokes@dorje.com. BTW, the pipes ALWAYS weighed 35 pounds
on those bikes... (FWIW, I've got about 8 GT750 Suzuki's.. Liquid
cooled 2-stroke 750cc triples.. What a machine...)
If the mufflers are truely coked over to the point where they are
clogger, the traditional method is to have the carbon burnt out -
1500 degree ovens and all.. The GT380 is a 3 cylinder, and should split
the center cylinder pipe into two smaller pipes (unless they've been
replaced by expansion chambers...) You should have 4 total exhaust
pipes, chromed and heavy as hell... And chances are, the clogging is
at the BACK end and not the front... The baffling (muffler) generally
gets clogged first, so that's where you should start looking.
The baffles come out (should be a small screw at the bottom of the
back of each muffler) - unscrew the baffle retainer and pull the baffle out.
Look at the baffle - the fiberglass packing material is probably all oiled
and nasty - pull it off and re-install the baffles.. Now, restart the bike.
Things should have changed dramatically - it should run OK now, but
louder.. DO NOT RUN THE BIKE LIKE THIS FOR LONG - you can overheat
and seize the motor if you do not shut it down as soon as you decide
that the initial problem is gone.. . If the bike runs OK, get some fiberglass
packing for the baffles (any Japanese bike shop can get it) and repack
the baffles... The baffling material is just held onto the baffle itself with
spiral-wrapped stainless steel wire....
If this didn't do the trick, let me know and I'll see what else I can
do for you.... Good luck...
========================================================
Richard "VI,CE" Bernecker Manassas, VA, USoA
bernie@cais.com
"What's the use of having luck if you don't use it?"
========================================================
------------------------------
From: "Richard Bernecker" <bernie@cais.cais.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 11:18:32 -5
Subject: Re: Clogged pipes
Joe wrote:
> I believe the pipes on my dad's Suzuki GT380 (2-stroke) are
> clogged. The peak horepower is down to about 5 and each exhaust
> pipe weighs about 35 lbs. Does anyone have a non-destructive
> way of getting the carbon out of the pipes?
>
One thought in the light of day... The symptom, as much as has been
described, really sounds like fouled plugs. Replace all three with
new plugs and RUN the bike under a load..... If this doesn't help,
try pulling the exhaust baffles as described last night...
Also, before you run this thing again - check the crankcase oil level.
If you are in fact burning enough oil to cause exhaust coking or
fouled plugs, chances are you've lost the crankshaft seal which
separates the engine crankcase from the transmission. This should
show up as a low oil level in the tranny. If this is the case, STOP
EVERYTHING. You will need to have the engine cases split and
the seal replaced, most likely as part of a crankshaft overhaul...
$$$$$$$. If you run the engine with this seal leaking, the induction
vacuum will suck all of the tranny oil into the engine, burn it
(poorly) and lead to a locked up tranny (while riding), you on the
ground in a high-side, and large hospital as well as mechanical
bills. Seriously. Check the oil level - if it's within spec, mark the
level for future reference in case you are pulling it slowly...
To recap - check the tranny oil, and replace the plugs first. If tranny
oil level is OK, run the bike with new plugs. If that doesn't resolve
the problem, pull the baffles. If that doesn't resolve the problem,
let me know....
========================================================
Richard "VI,CE" Bernecker Manassas, VA, USoA
bernie@cais.com
"What's the use of having luck if you don't use it?"
========================================================
------------------------------
From: nimi@d2.com (Nathan Ives)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:05:51 -0800
Subject: R90/6 Vibrations
Wanted to write and thank all those who responded to my message
about the vibration in my R90/6. I ended up removing the flywheel, having
it and the clutch balanced as a unit, and puting it all back together. To
my ecstatic suprise, the vibration is gone and the bike is running
perfectly.
Thank You,
nathan ives
******************************************************************************
"....as long as people know when the bus is leaving and where it is going."
-Bret Goldhorn
****************************************************************************
**
------------------------------
From: afkjv@VMS.ACAD2.ALASKA.EDU
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 10:23:20 -0900
Subject: German Accent
Fellow Presidents,
Forgive me if I missed something in an earlier post, but what is with the
"German accent" on messages to this list? Kinda cute at first, but makes
for tedious reading when time is scarce.
I noticed that my last post in response to Tim Eustis' question on water
purifiers was somehow "translated" so as to appear Germanized. Since I
had not posted the message that way (nor this message) nor gave anyone
permission to do so, I personally would appreciate it if my messages to
this list remained unaltered.
Thank you.
Kit Vercella
------------------------------
From: nimi@d2.com (Nathan Ives)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 12:41:19 -0800
Subject: Pilot Bearing, R90/6
Howdy,
Does anybody know what it sounds like when the pilot bearing in an
R bike is going bad? My bike has a light whine at an idle with the clutch
out which goes away when I pull it in slightly. From my work on cars I
thought this might be what it is, but I am unsure on the bike. Thanks in
advance for any help.
-nathan
******************************************************************************
"....as long as people know when the bus is leaving and where it is going."
-Bret Goldhorn
****************************************************************************
**
------------------------------
From: bkeahey@uswest.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 15:04:37 MDT
Subject: Re: Pilot Bearing, R90/6
Addressed to: nimi@d2.com
BMW Mailing List <bmw-tech@roadkill.com>
** Reply to note from nimi@d2.com 04/01/96 12:41pm -0800
> Does anybody know what it sounds like when the pilot bearing in an
> R bike is going bad? My bike has a light whine at an idle with the clutch
> out which goes away when I pull it in slightly. From my work on cars I
> thought this might be what it is, but I am unsure on the bike. Thanks in
> advance for any help.
>
> -nathan
I think the noise you've described in a car sounds more like a throwout bearing
than a pilot bearing. Typically, a throwout bearing makes noise when it is not
under load, as is the case when the clutch (pedal on a car, lever on a bike) is
engaged. When you disengage the clutch (push the pedal on a car, pull the
lever on a bike) the bearing is under load and the noise stops. A "pilot bearing"
simply locates a car's trans input shaft in the center of the flywheel, and its load
doesn't typically change with clutch in/out.
// Bruce G. Keahey , U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO
// "Never anger a dragon, for you are crunchy and you go well with Brie."
------------------------------
From: Jonathan Hutchins <jhutchins@pop.umkc.edu>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 17:11:55 -0600
Subject: Aeroflow vs. Parabellum
Anybody out there ever compare an Aeroflow replacement windscreen for the
K100LT ('85) with the Parabellum?
Parabellum's about $50 less, and I've heard good things about the company.
Any other opinions? I'll probably order one this weekend if they're open.
Jonathan Hutchins
University Libraries Computer Support,
University of Missouri at Kansas City
'85 K100 BMW, '81 GS850G Suzuki
Motorcycles, Computers, Guitars ...
http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/jhutchins/
------------------------------
From: Jonathan Hutchins <jhutchins@pop.umkc.edu>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 17:57:55 -0600
Subject: Clutch Spline Consumables
I may get a chance to do a clutch spline lube on my '85 K100RT this weekend.
I'd like to have all the consumables in hand, as I'll be riding the beast to
and from where I'm working on it, and the dealer's even further away.
So far, the only consumable I have is the big tube of red-goo lube itself.
I figure I'll need exhaust gaskets if the header's coming off. Any other
gaskets, seals, or other bits I should have in hand?
Aren't there some bolts I'll need to replace?
Jonathan Hutchins
University Libraries Computer Support,
University of Missouri at Kansas City
'85 K100 BMW, '81 GS850G Suzuki
Motorcycles, Computers, Guitars ...
http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/jhutchins/
------------------------------
From: David Brick <dbrick@deepthought.armory.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 17:01:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Clutch Spline Consumables
While you should replace the big nut which holds the clutch basket (or
carrier) to the back of the motor, I'd suggest there's no need to remove
it in the first place unless the rear main seal is leaking. If you're not
disassembling the clutch itself (rhetorical questions: how long's it been
in there? Slip or grab?) there's no other consumables in the job. If you
do take the clutch apart, then you might consider replacing the six bolts
which hold it together.
David Brick
dbrick@deepthought.armory.com
Santa Cruz, California
BOOF #8 and DAVE #6 (but always #1 to my mom)
On Mon, 1 Apr 1996, Jonathan Hutchins wrote:
> http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/jhutchins/
------------------------------
From: Fetoid@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 20:44:05 -0500
Subject: It's April First you accent complainers!
Some people are pretty slow. It took me about 5 minutes to go from, "What is
wrong w/ my Email program?" to, "Oh, ya, today is April Fools Day. That's
pretty damn funny, a lot of effort though."
Keep it up guys, I can't wait untill Halloween.
http://www.wal-mart.com
"Let's make sure history never forgets the name, Enterprise."
-Picard, Yesterday's Enterprise
**********************
------------------------------
From: JLadd10686@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 22:14:54 -0500
Subject: Mikuni square side carbs
Anyone out there running Mikuni carbs. I just got them in from Luftmeister
and I am not sure I like them. They idle fine, but they bog on quick
transitions from idle to 3000 rpm. I've tried setting the pin up and down a
position, and the mixture screw doesn't peak. I keeps increasing the engine
rpm until the screw falls out. 3000 up seems strong.
Is there any past articles in the MOA about them? I do not have many older
copies being a relatively new member. I will get back in touch with Matt
Capri at Luftmeister also.
------------------------------
From: "Malcolm A. Meyn" <tmeyn@ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:05:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Mikuni square side carbs
We'll need a lot more info to help you out with this.
What size engine do you have?
Is valve size stock?
Is exhaust stock?
Is intake port size stock?
If anything is not stock, please provide the new dimensions.
What size carbs are these? I assume they are slides and not CV.
Best,
Tony Meyn
Tucson, AZ
On Mon, 1 Apr 1996 JLadd10686@aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone out there running Mikuni carbs. I just got them in from Luftmeister
> and I am not sure I like them. They idle fine, but they bog on quick
> transitions from idle to 3000 rpm. I've tried setting the pin up and down a
> position, and the mixture screw doesn't peak. I keeps increasing the engine
> rpm until the screw falls out. 3000 up seems strong.
> Is there any past articles in the MOA about them? I do not have many older
> copies being a relatively new member. I will get back in touch with Matt
> Capri at Luftmeister also.
>
------------------------------
From: JLadd10686@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 14:37:51 -0500
Subject: More carb stuff
Here's some more info on my carbs:
They are 38mm Mikuni square slides
Jets:
main is -> 195
pilot is -> 30
air is -> 1.5
Thanks, Jon
------------------------------
From: "Jonathan Hutchins" <jhutchins@pop.umkc.edu>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 19:08:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch Spline Consumables
On 1 Apr 96 at 17:01, David Brick wrote:
> While you should replace the big nut which holds the clutch basket
> (or carrier) to the back of the motor, I'd suggest there's no need
> to remove it in the first place unless the rear main seal is
> leaking.
OK, I think we'll leave that alone then.
>If you're not disassembling the clutch itself (rhetorical
> questions: how long's it been in there? Slip or grab?)
Nope, just a mild dry-spline syndrome (sticks in gear occasionally).
10 years/20k miles.
Thanks!
Jonathan Hutchins
University Libraries Computer Support,
University of Missouri at Kansas City
'85 K100 BMW, '81 GS850G Suzuki
Motorcycles, Computers, Guitars ...
http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/jhutchins/
------------------------------
End of bmw-tech-digest V1 #8
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